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            "3039": {
                "pageid": 3039,
                "ns": 0,
                "title": "Redneck Shaving Soap (melt & pour)",
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                        "*": "The following is a brief tutorial on making Jockeys' Redneck Shaving Soap.  As with all of Jockeys' other Redneck projects, there is an emphasis on low cost, use of common tools and household items, and a high degree of quality and shaving-suitability.\n\n==Ingredients==\nAll of the ingredients may be found at your local craft store (Joann's, Micheal's, etc.) and your local pharmacy (CVS, Walgreen's, etc).  The containers are available at most grocery stores (Albertson's, Walmart).  Total cost per bowl with about 3oz of soap is under 5 dollars depending on local prices.\n*Soap base - glycerin with shea butter is what I used, others will work but I like the shea butter as it's very moisturizing\n*Food coloring - strictly optional.  I mainly dye them to tell them apart\n*Essential oil or fragrance oil - FO is more likely to cause an allergic reaction, but is far cheaper.  I stick to EO\n*Bentonite clay - optional.  Makes the soap more slick, I leave it out because it irritates my skin.\n*Glycerin - in liquid form\n\n[[Image:Ingredients.JPG|400px]]\n\n==Equipment==\n*Heat source - I used a microwave, you can use a stove but use a double boiler to keep from burning the soap\n*Cutting tool to chop up the soap - any knife will do\n*Scale - optional, only for those interested in portion control.  I just eyeball it to around 3oz\n*Stirring utensil - plastic fork, in my case\n*Freezer and refrigerator - for cooling the soap\n*Container for the soap - I use ZipLoc snack pack containers, they are small and seal well for traveling\n\n==Procedure==\n\n===Chop up the soap into little pieces===\nThe smaller the pieces, the quicker it will melt, and more evenly.  My pieces are 1/2\" cubes.\n\n[[Image:Cutting1.jpg|400px]]\n[[Image:Cutting2.jpg|400px]]\n===Melt the soap===\nIf using a microwave and ziplocs you can just put the whole thing in, otherwise you will have to melt it in some other vessel and pour it in.  If using a microwave, do it 15-30 seconds at a time, if it boils over it will do so really fast.\n\n[[Image:Cutandready.jpg|400px]]\n\n===Add EO or FO===\nFor 3oz of soap I use 15-25 drops from an eyedropper.  You may use as much or as little as you prefer.  Less than 10 drops for 3oz is basically unsmellable, more than 30 will irritate skin.\n\n[[Image:Melted.jpg|400px]]\n\n===Add glycerin===\nI use a soap dispenser for my glycerin and do 2 healthy pumps.  This equates to 25-30 drops.  If you have very sensitive skin, use less.\n\n===Add food coloring if desired===\nMore means a darker color.  10 drops will be fairly pastel.\n\n[[Image:Colorswirl.jpg|400px]]\n\n===Add bentonite if desired===\nAbout 1/2 teaspoon for 3 oz.\n\n===Stir ''very thoroughly''===\n\n[[Image:Stirring.jpg|400px]]\n\n===Cap and freeze===\nAs soon as you are done stirring, cap the container and immediately put it in the freezer.  This is so it will solidify before the glycerin settles out.  (Glycerin is very dense, if given enough time it will pool on the bottom.  Freeze for 30 minutes.\n\n===Cool in refrigerator===\nAfter 30 minutes, put soap in refrigerator to finish cooling.  If you leave it in the freezer it will crack.\n\n===The next day===\nThe next day, take the soap out of the fridge and let it set for 24 hours before using it.  If you use it sooner, it will still be too cold and won't lather right.\n[[category:Do It Yourself]]"
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            "378": {
                "pageid": 378,
                "ns": 0,
                "title": "Removing Defects From Epoxy Resin Scales",
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                        "*": "[[Image:epoxy_defect.jpg|thumb|150px|Defect in Pink Ivory Scales]] Resin can be problematic because of the long cure time (3 days). The gloss finish will show any little defect, the worst of which is a spot of dust. There is just no hiding any kind of defect in a high gloss finish.\n\nIf you have a problem with the finish you have two options. You can sand it out and recoat it with a gloss urethane or another coat of epoxy on it. The down side, it takes another day to 3 days for the finish to cure and you still run the risk of having another spot of dust falling on it.\n\nThe other option is to sand it out and then sand/buff the gloss back into the finish. I had a set of pink ivory scales that had gotten a speck of dust on one side. So I figured this would be a good time to document the process. \n\nOriginally posted by [https://straightrazorpalace.com/members/cannonfodder.html cannonfodder]<ref>https://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/28563-removing-defects-epoxy-resin-scales-how.html</ref>.\n\n== The Tutorial ==\n\nThere really is not much to it. You need:\n\n* some micromesh sandpaper (I have a set that runs from 1500 grit to 12000 grit);\n\n* some white rouge;\n\n* wax;\n\n* a padded sanding block;\n\n* If you have a buffer, it makes the final step a little easier.\n\n=== Sand ===\n\nYou start with the 1500 grit paper and wet sand your way down to the 12000 grit. One thing to keep in mind, sand too much and you will expose the wood. If that happens, you have to refinish the scales. Sand the defect out at the three higher grits. Once you get past 3200 grit you are not removing much material. If your spot is not removed by then, you need to go back to 1500 and sand a little more. Keep the pressure light, remember you are sanding off a hairs width of finish. Don\u2019t spend too much time around the edges, the sides will be a little thinner than the top so they are easy to sand through. Keep the scales wet while you sand.\n\n<gallery caption=\"Sanding\" widths=\"300px\" heights=\"150px\" perrow=\"3\">\n Image:micro_mesh.jpg |a. Micro Mesh\nImage:micromesh_sand_block.jpg |b. Sanding Block\nImage:sanding.jpg |c. Keep the scales wet while sanding\nImage:1500_grit.jpg |1. 1500 Grit\nImage:1800_grit.jpg |2. 1800 Grit\nImage:2400_grit.jpg |3. 2400 Grit\nImage:3200_grit.jpg |4. 3200 Grit\nImage:4000_grit.jpg |5. 4000 Grit\nImage:6000_grit.jpg |6. 6000 Grit\nImage:8000_grit.jpg |7. 8000 Grit\nImage:12000_grit.jpg |8. 12000 Grit\n</gallery>\n\n=== Polish ===\n\nOnce you get through the 12000 grit you will have a nice gloss, but it still needs a little more polishing. For that, I use white rouge and my buffer. You have to be very careful at this point. If you go too slow or use too much pressure, you will burn the finish and have to start over. A couple of basic tips, keep the edge on the outward side of the buffers rotation. If you get a corner turned into the buffing wheel, it will grab and throw your scale across the workshop, break the scales or break your hand. The basic safety rules still apply, no long sleeves, no dangly anything that can get caught in the wheel, wear eye protection yada yada yada.\n\n<gallery caption=\"Polishing\" widths=\"300px\" heights=\"150px\" perrow=\"2\">\n Image:buff_white_rogue.jpg |Buffing with White Rouge\nImage:buffed_out.jpg |Scales after Buffing\n</gallery>\n\n=== Wax ===\nOnce you have them buffed you will almost be there. The shine will be back but to match the original high gloss finish you will need to give them a final wax and light buff. Then you will be ready to drop in your blade.\n\n<gallery caption=\"Wax On....Wax Off\" widths=\"300px\" heights=\"150px\" perrow=\"2\">\n Image:polished.jpg |Polished...\nImage:finished.jpg |...And ready to go!\n</gallery>\n\n=== Tips === \nIf you are going to give your scales a coat of gloss urethane instead of buffing them out\n* Do not sand them too fine. \n* If you do not have micromesh, you can use regular auto body sand paper. \n* Do not go beyond 1000 grit. You can actually go too fine. \n* The finish needs something to grab onto, the light striations give the urethane something to bind with.<ref>https://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/28563-removing-defects-epoxy-resin-scales-how.html#post288635</ref>\n\n== See Also ==\n[[Epoxy resin finishing scales]]\n\n== Notes ==\n<references/>\n\n[[Category:Scale_Repair]]"
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