Editing Bevel-setting in theory and practice
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Ideally ,the bevel should be completely formed by the time we traverse the 2K mark. After that it becomes increasingly more difficult and time consuming to achieve our goals. Fail at this level and the subsequent hones will put a nice polish on the faces of your incomplete bevel, but do nothing for the actual edge of that bevel, simply because it does not really exist yet. | Ideally ,the bevel should be completely formed by the time we traverse the 2K mark. After that it becomes increasingly more difficult and time consuming to achieve our goals. Fail at this level and the subsequent hones will put a nice polish on the faces of your incomplete bevel, but do nothing for the actual edge of that bevel, simply because it does not really exist yet. | ||
− | A good strategy for when you need to do extensive bevel work, is to start out on a 600 grit stone, and move to 1000 or 1200 as soon as parts of the edge starts to respond to the thumbnail test. There’s still plenty of work to do now, in order to remove all 600 grit scratches, before you’ll complete the 1K stage. Stay on it till the razor shaves arm hair with great ease and passes the thumbnail test along its entire length. Finalize your work with a number of ultra light laps on the same hone, or on a 2K hone if present | + | A good strategy for when you need to do extensive bevel work, is to start out on a 600 grit stone, and move to 1000 or 1200 as soon as parts of the edge starts to respond to the thumbnail test. There’s still plenty of work to do now, in order to remove all 600 grit scratches, before you’ll complete the 1K stage. Stay on it till the razor shaves arm hair with great ease and passes the thumbnail test along its entire length. Finalize your work with a number of ultra light laps on the same hone, or on a 2K hone if present. |
== Watch your defense == | == Watch your defense == |