Editing Un-pinning and re-pinning a razor

This article was originally posted by [https://straightrazorpalace.com/members/gssixgun.html gssixgun]<ref>https://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/24981-illustrated-guide-un-pinning-re-pinning.html</ref>

== Background ==

With all the questions and such that come up on pinning razors, I decided to take the time and some pictures, and put this together, while I was on this next restore.... I apologize for some of my pictures in advance I just ain't that good.

== Setup ==

We are starting with a DD Reaper that is going though a complete restore... So first I am going to pop the pins... There are a few ways to do this, and if I were intent on keeping the scales, I might use one of the other ways ie: a drill press or Dremel to drill out the pins... For this guide, I used the least expensive tools, and NO power tools so it would be of the most benefit, to the most people...... (these scales are shot, they are rotted through, even though it doesn't show in the pictures)

== Where to start ==

Always start on the back side of the razor, if there is going to be a locking collar, it will be on the back side, this DD has them...If you look close you will see that the razor is held steady in one of the small dimples that I have drilled into the anvil side of the bench vise.... I file gently, and slowly, until that collar pops off, then I use a 1/16 pin punch to tap the pins out... I tried to show why a lot of these scales will crack when you do this, it is not yer fault, look at how bent up these pins are when they come out.... So go SLOW you might save the scales.... once the razor is released I take out the center pin, then the wedge pin, and break the razor all the way down.... All I used here was the file, the drift pin, (any small pointy thingy) and a jeweler's hammer, oh yeah, and a bench vise......

<gallery caption="DD Before and After" widths="180px" heights="120px" perrow="2">
Image:DD_before.jpg | The front side or Show side of every razor (note direction not the name plates)
Image:DD_Before2.jpg | The back side of every razor ( I have heard of left handed razors out there, but have never actually seen one, they would be reversed)
</gallery>

Here are some pictures of what I was talking about above... Note the small dimple in the anvil... picture #1. Note the collar next to the drift pin on pictures 3 & 4.

<gallery caption="First Steps" widths="180px" heights="120px" perrow="4">
Image:UP_1.jpg | Picture No. 1
Image:UP_2.jpg | Picture No. 2
Image:UP_3.jpg | Picture No. 3
Image:UP_4.jpg | Picture No. 4
</gallery>

Note how I used the jaws of the vise just barely opened to set the razor on while I gently tap out the pins.....  Now these are some bent pins coming out of this DD, There was no indication of that until I tapped the pins out BTW..... what really surprised me was the the Wedge pin is bent also that is unusual.

<gallery caption="Tapping on the Pins" widths="180px" heights="120px" perrow="4">
Image:UP_5.jpg | Picture No. 5
Image:UP_6.jpg | Picture No. 6
Image:UP_7.jpg | Picture No. 7
</gallery>

A completely disassembled razor here in picture #8, note how I kept the centre pin spacer, and the nice thin thrust washers.... I will clean these up and use them on the new scales for this razor.... This one will go back together using Yellowheart wood scales with the brass inlays from the original scales on there, but that's another thread that Dan / Floppyshoes and I are going to do together.

<gallery caption="A completely disassembled razor" widths="180px" heights="120px" perrow="4">
Image:UP_8.jpg | 8
</gallery>

== Making and re-pinning yer razors ==

This is going to be a simple re-pin, there are tons of ways to make these even prettier, but those are on other threads.

You need 1/16 rod, I use Brass or Nickel Silver (this one is NiAg) some washers, these are #0 SS from [[Adjustable Pins aka Microfasteners|Microfasteners]] some cutters, a file, and a jewelers hammer, or small ballpeen.

I am doing these with the least amount of tools, you can make a pinning block, out of any piece of solid steel like a jewelers block but that starts to get into another area.

Notice I switched to another vise here the blue one has smooth jaws, the red one above has griped jaws they are changeable, I am just lazy, and have 2 different ones. You do not want to tighten down on the soft rod with the crosscut grip style jaws... You need about 3/4 of an inch of rod, I cut it off at about 1/16 inch above the jaws, and make sure the rod is straight in there... I then file it down nice and smooth and flat so the peening is easier. Tap, ''don't'' hammer, using the ball end of the hammer, the hammer doesn't even move 1 inch above the pin, it just kinda bounces off there almost no force...

The pin will peen out enough to hold a washer,( this is a straight style vintage pin you could use a Doming & Dapping set to make domed washers) then you slip one washer on, and slide the assembly though the scales and razor to be pinned (wedge first, then center then pivot) here I am just using a scrape set to show this with).

Cut the pin off the back side then file that down to about 1/16 above the second locking washer
Start again with a nice flat smooth surface and start tapping again same way that did on the other side... Tap Tappity Tap, until you lock in the washers and get a nice clean peen.... It really is that easy.... Oh yeah flip the razor to the other side and tap that again too..... Nice and straight and gentle...

<gallery caption="Making and re-pinning" widths="180px" heights="120px" perrow="4">
Image:RP_1.jpg | All of the stuff that you need...
Image:RP_2.jpg | Start with the rod as straight as possible here
Image:RP_3.jpg | Any type of cutters will work... 
Image:RP_4.jpg | ... you are going to clean up the end in the next step
Image:RP_5.jpg | This is very important to the finished look so take a little extra care when filing the rod flat.
Image:RP_6.jpg | OK really, you don't have to measure this, I just did it so ya had an idea, just so long as it sticks up a little, it is fine.
Image:RP_7.jpg | Tap tap tap
Image:RP_8.jpg | Slide on the washer for a lock..
Image:RP_9.jpg | Keep in mind that this can be done without a locking washer too, some of the older razors were done with just a peened pin.
Image:RP_10.jpg | However I do not advise it.
Image:RP_11.jpg | This is a Doming & Dapping set, these can be used to produce Domed washers using one technique. 
Image:RP_12.jpg | There is another technique using tubing hidden away in the deep dark recesses of SRP.
Image:RP_13.jpg | Again clip it off about 1/16 of an inch from where ya need it to be...
Image:RP_14.jpg | ...  so you can file it nice and smooth...
Image:RP_15.jpg | Note I filed the pin down here between these two pictures see the difference in height of the pin.
Image:RP_16.jpg | Ever so gently here, you need to lock the washer in.
Image:RP_17.jpg | A finished Pin!

</gallery>


You may also enjoy a detailed, scientific method, described by FloppyShoes in:
[http://cid-0b7695c5bc5fc7ea.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/PinningGuide.pdf FloppyShoes' Pinning Guide for Engineers]

== Conclusion ==

Again, I will say that there are other ways to accomplish this entire process, in fact I use a few different ones, but this is the easiest, and least expensive way, that doesn't require a lot of expenditure for tools etc. that I have found.

If you would like to add some other tips to this, please feel free, but please include pictures of what yer doing, as they say one picture is worth a thousand words.

== Additional Notes ==
If the peen is getting overly large, (first sign of to long a pin) you can file it off some and re-peen and save the work or you can just start over.

== Videos ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+ Pinning 101 videos on youtube by [http://www.alexjacques.com/ Alex Jacques]
|-
|  {{#ev:youtube|t4uwwk16CLY}}  ||  {{#ev:youtube|vihhWXSbPQY}} 
|}

== References ==


<references />

[[Category:Scale_Repair]]