Editing Overhoning
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Overhoned edges can usually be easily cured with several backhoning (spine leading) laps, preferably on the next coarser grit stone (ie: overhoning occurs on the 8k then drop to the 4k to correct it). Once the burr is removed from a deteriorated edge, proceed with normal honing. Always make sure that [[Bevel-setting in theory and practice|the bevel is well set]] before going to finer grits. As you can see from the last statement this is exactly what the pyramid method was designed for, to avoid an overhoned edge... | Overhoned edges can usually be easily cured with several backhoning (spine leading) laps, preferably on the next coarser grit stone (ie: overhoning occurs on the 8k then drop to the 4k to correct it). Once the burr is removed from a deteriorated edge, proceed with normal honing. Always make sure that [[Bevel-setting in theory and practice|the bevel is well set]] before going to finer grits. As you can see from the last statement this is exactly what the pyramid method was designed for, to avoid an overhoned edge... | ||
| − | == Hones | + | == Hones == |
Different hones take different numbers of laps or pressure before overhoning. The generic rule of thumb is that it is easier to overhone with fast synthetic hones than with natural stones. 100 laps on a Chinese 12k stone or on a Coticule will certainly not lead to overhoning, but the same amount of laps may be too much for fast Shaptons or Nortons. Coticules and BBWs are known to never overhone. | Different hones take different numbers of laps or pressure before overhoning. The generic rule of thumb is that it is easier to overhone with fast synthetic hones than with natural stones. 100 laps on a Chinese 12k stone or on a Coticule will certainly not lead to overhoning, but the same amount of laps may be too much for fast Shaptons or Nortons. Coticules and BBWs are known to never overhone. | ||
