Editing Palm sander fixture for scale slabs
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| − | *One 1/2" thick, flat piece of hardwood with its length and width sized to be 1" wider than the size scale slabs you like to work with. For example, I don't plan on making scales longer than 6" and wider than 1 1/2" from the base of their arc to the top of their arc. I went with hardwood for two reasons: 1) durability against use and | + | *One 1/2" thick, flat piece of hardwood with its length and width sized to be 1" wider than the size scale slabs you like to work with. For example, I don't plan on making scales longer than 6" and wider than 1 1/2" from the base of their arc to the top of their arc. I went with hardwood for two reasons: 1) durability against use and repetative screwing/unscrewing, 2) it's important the piece be flat. I don't have of milling a piece of wood to ensure it's flat. So I did the next best and easiest thing - I went to Home Depot, grabbed a 4" wide by 1/2" length of red oak from the aisle with wooden flooring stairwell materials, and had them cut me an 8" piece. Unlike all the rough cut lumber, the pieces in this section are pre-milled to be flat. (Cost: ~$1)<br> |
*One piece of 1/2" x 36" x 1/8" steel bar stock from Home Depot (~$3)<br> | *One piece of 1/2" x 36" x 1/8" steel bar stock from Home Depot (~$3)<br> | ||
*One 1/4" carbide drill bit. You'll be drilling steel with this so it MUST be <u>carbide</u>. (~$2)<br> | *One 1/4" carbide drill bit. You'll be drilling steel with this so it MUST be <u>carbide</u>. (~$2)<br> | ||
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#Cut the bar stock into 4 pieces: 2 that are the same width as you piece of wood, and 2 that are the same length as the wood '''MINUS 1"'''. SEE PICTURES BELOW<br> | #Cut the bar stock into 4 pieces: 2 that are the same width as you piece of wood, and 2 that are the same length as the wood '''MINUS 1"'''. SEE PICTURES BELOW<br> | ||
#Using the 1/8" bit, drill two evenly spaced holes in both short pieces of bar stock, two evenly spaced holes in one long piece of the bar stock, and 4 evenly spaced holes in the other long piece of bar stock. NOTE: To drill the steel A) use a hammer and nail to tap indents where you plan to drill so the bit has something to bite into and won't 'dance' across the surface, B) put a drop or two of oil - camellia, motor, WD-40, whatever - on the indent to provide a little lubrication and cooling. C) drill on LOW speed (the lower the better), the bit will cut MUCH more quickly and effectively at low speed whereas high speed can heat up the bit, degrade, and dull it<br> | #Using the 1/8" bit, drill two evenly spaced holes in both short pieces of bar stock, two evenly spaced holes in one long piece of the bar stock, and 4 evenly spaced holes in the other long piece of bar stock. NOTE: To drill the steel A) use a hammer and nail to tap indents where you plan to drill so the bit has something to bite into and won't 'dance' across the surface, B) put a drop or two of oil - camellia, motor, WD-40, whatever - on the indent to provide a little lubrication and cooling. C) drill on LOW speed (the lower the better), the bit will cut MUCH more quickly and effectively at low speed whereas high speed can heat up the bit, degrade, and dull it<br> | ||
| − | #Use the 1/4" bit to countersink all of the 1/8" holes you just drilled. | + | #Use the 1/4" bit to countersink all of the 1/8" holes you just drilled. Becareful - it goes quick and if you're not carefull it can go all the way through and ruin the hole (i.e. you'll notice one of my long pieces have 5 holes instead of 4). SEE PICTURES BELOW<br> |
#Arrange the bar stock pieces on you piece of wood as shown below. Mark the holes on the wood. FOR THE 4-HOLED PIECE OF BAR - <u>only mark TWO holes</u> on the wood. <br> | #Arrange the bar stock pieces on you piece of wood as shown below. Mark the holes on the wood. FOR THE 4-HOLED PIECE OF BAR - <u>only mark TWO holes</u> on the wood. <br> | ||
#Use the 1/8" bit to drill the marked screw holes in the wood<br> | #Use the 1/8" bit to drill the marked screw holes in the wood<br> | ||
