Editing Restoring a straight razor

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== After Blade Cleanup ==
 
== After Blade Cleanup ==
  
So here we are, the hard part is all done, blade is rust free, most of the patina is gone, now we have bright [[On Steel|steel]] and for the first time in decades the manufacturer’s mark (tang stamp) is clearly visible (what a relief). …What’s that you ask?.. “…is this what I waited so long to see?... how come it’s not shiny… and it still has pits on the face and tang…”  Well we can’t satisfy everybody, not even ourselves sometimes. Humor aside, the truth is a practical one.
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So here we are, the hard part is all done, blade is rust free, most of the patina is gone, now we have bright steel and for the first time in decades the manufacturer’s mark (tang stamp) is clearly visible (what a relief). …What’s that you ask?.. “…is this what I waited so long to see?... how come it’s not shiny… and it still has pits on the face and tang…”  Well we can’t satisfy everybody, not even ourselves sometimes. Humor aside, the truth is a practical one.
  
 
<gallery  widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
 
<gallery  widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
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Up next, we discuss scale cleanup, and “pin tail” on this baby using the original lock washers…. Why did you think we went through all the trouble to preserve the lock washers?
 
Up next, we discuss scale cleanup, and “pin tail” on this baby using the original lock washers…. Why did you think we went through all the trouble to preserve the lock washers?
 
== Pinning ==
 
Here we are almost done.
 
 
<gallery  widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Pinning_-_01.jpg | In the first photo you see the polished scales and wedge piece. As said previously, the scales were in excellent condition, they were un-warped and only needed light wet sanding, starting with 2K grit w/d paper to remove light scratches and then a final polish to bring out the shine… about 10 minutes work…. Bakelite scales are very easy to sand and polish by hand so power tools are often not necessary. Incidentally, if you decide to use power, be cautious when using the Dremel, the supplied wheels are small and the tool spins at high RPM, if you “linger” on one spot, heat will quickly burn the bakelite and you will have to re-sand the area, a low RPM buffer with a large wheel to spread the load works better.
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Pinning_-_02.jpg | In this second photo a crowded collection of pivot parts, the blade and scales at the pivot end, and in the center of the photo, a pair of new brass bearings, the salvaged pair of lock washers and a new nickel silver pin. You can see the close-up photos, the pin is flared (mushroomed) just enough to keep the lock-washer from falling off.
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Pinning_-_03.jpg | A quick point: Normally, before cutting the length for pin from the supply rod, we would place the rod in a vice, flair the end with the ball peen hammer, then assemble the razor’s pivot end (or butt end) complete with blade, bearings and lock washers, then we cut the rod for the pin from the supply rod, that way we only cut the length we need for the pin and there would be very little waste. In this case I’ve already assembled, measured and cut the length just a tiny bit longer than I needed… it’s OK to cut a little too long than too short… we can file it shorter… but we cannot file it longer.
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Pinning_-_04.jpg | The last three photos are views of re-pinned butt end with a new pin, ...
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Pinning_-_05.jpg | ... original white wedge spacer ...
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Pinning_-_06.jpg | ...  and lock-washers.
 
</gallery>
 
 
Incidentally if you are interested in making your own washers you may follow these links for some great ideas.
 
 
* [https://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/24420-vintage-style-thrust-bearing-internal-washers.html Vintage style Thrust/Bearing Internal Washers]
 
* [https://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/39097-how-make-blade-spacers.html How to Make Blade Spacers]
 
 
Coming up in our next post we see photos of the razor fully assembled and “hone ready”. Then “post honing” photos so you’ll see the hone were (or new were) we put on the blade so don’t go away.
 
 
== Assembled ==
 
Here we are, she is all assembled and ready for the hones. She is not perfect, but if you wrinkle at her freckles, you may want to go back to the earlier pix, refresh you memory, look at her now… Face Worthy?
 
 
Pinning is one of those tasks that will make-or-break a razor (most likely the scales), and more so if the scales are vintage bakelite. Bakelite is very brittle, and you will be saddened should you go through all that effort to clean and polish, only to have them brake at this final step.
 
 
Very light taps around the edge of the pin head, the lighter you go, the less likely you will break the scales if you accidentally hit them. You only want to deform the pin head so it mushrooms and holds the lock washer in place against the scales. Remember you don’t want to hit the pin like you do the head of a nail because unlike a nail, the pin has no where to go, hit the pin too hard and the excess energy will start to bend the shaft of the pin. Some folks anneal the pin to make it softer before pinning so they can get away with lighter taps.
 
 
''In fact, if only tightening the pivot of an already working razor, also use light taps around the head, this will make the head flare and curl some more to press harder against the lock washer and in turn against the scales which makes the joint tighter.''
 
 
It is also important that the length of the pin be just right, too long, and by the time the joint is tight the mushroom gets too big and “spill over” the sides of the lock washer, too short and there won’t be enough material to hold the lock washer.
 
 
<gallery  widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_01.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_02.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_03.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_04.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_05.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_06.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_07.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_08.jpg |
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_Assembled_-_09.jpg |
 
</gallery>
 
 
Finally, the restore is done… but not quite, now we will hone and test shave to see if this no-name razor can “cut it”… and then in our final post will see how much hone were it cost to get her shave ready… see you then.
 
 
== After Shave ==
 
So here we are at the end of a successful restore.
 
 
<gallery  widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_After_Shave_-_01.jpg | We put some hone wear on her as we set the new bevel, not much, on average maybe a shade less than a millimeter on the spine. The bevels are relatively thin with even distribution which makes for easy maintenance.
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_After_Shave_-_02.jpg | But lets have a close look at the rear face photos, do you the flat spot on the spine widens a bit at the toe?... again... maybe I have a heavy hand at the end of my back stroke lol…
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_After_Shave_-_03.jpg | Actually we may have spoken too soon earlier, in fact she does have a slight warp near the toe.
 
File:Smythe_-_razor_restoration_tutorial_-_After_Shave_-_04.jpg | This is one tell tail sign that the blade has a warp, so when scouting for razors you may want to bear that in mind; it’s not the most reliable indicator, a good honemeister will “hone around it” and the hone were will be even.
 
</gallery>
 
 
And if you are still curious… the shave was excellent, and frankly she embarrassed a few of my branded razors (I won’t mention names)…
 
As you collect, restore and hone razors, every now and then, after the shave as you run your hands over your new face, you will ask yourself “How did they do it, such a smooth and keen edge?”… And then you answer “whatever, glad I found this one”.
 
 
That’s it folks, Thank you for your patience in reading this long post. Indeed I hope you’ve all found something interesting in this presentation, be it my cheesy humor, my less than prefect advice or 3rd rate razor porn captured by my ageing Nikon.
 
 
Have a good one my friends.
 
  
 
== References ==
 
== References ==
 
<references />
 
<references />
[[Category:Blade_Restoration]] [[Category:Scale_Repair]]
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[[Category:Repair_&_Restoration]]

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