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| − | == Future Article: One Piece Scales ==
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| − | === Intro ===
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| − | === Brief discussion of various tools and methods that can be used goes here ===
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| − | === Table Saw - step by step process ===
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| − | Images and information posted to the SRP forums<ref>[http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/workshop/30970-one-piece-scale-tutorial-part-1-a.html One Piece Scale Tutorial - part 1]</ref><ref>[http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/workshop/30972-one-piece-scale-tutorial-part-2-a.html One Piece Scale Tutorial - part 2]</ref> by kilowattkid<ref>[http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/members/kilowattkid.html kilowattkid's SRP member page]</ref>
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| − | The wood is red oak.
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| − | On the jig did you cut the notches where they sit all the way thru or did it have a piece to rest on. an inside of the jig would be get. as i have all the tools to do this and one big block of walnut lol
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| − | There is no bottom at the dado cuts. they are all the way through, just line up scale piece flush with the bottom.
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| − | <gallery widths="400px" heights="267px" perrow="2">
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales001.jpg | Cut to width and thickness. 1/2" thickness and 1 1/4" to 1 1/8" width using the table saw for both.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales002.jpg | Cut to length. These are cut at about 7"
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales003.jpg | Place in the jig I made making sure it is square. You will see pictures of the jig throughout the cutting process to get an idea of what I used
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales004.jpg | center the jig and piece on chop saw.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales005.jpg | secure jig at both ends
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales006.jpg | cut down center of piece SLOWLY
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales007.jpg | white wood show how the round blade makes an uneven cut. I stand the piece up and use the chopsaw because I found trying to use my table saw creates an even bigger difference in the cu tbeing more uneven.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales008.jpg | keeping the piece in the jig and clamping in a vice, use a hand saw to gently cut down the "kerf" until both side are even. (kerf being a fancy name for the area where the blade removed material, ie. blade width)
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales009.jpg | after using the hand saw, use a flat file on the edge to smooth out the area cut.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales010.jpg | Lay the blade your going to use in the kerf and mark where you pivot hole will be. Transcribe this line all the way across the piece of wood.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales011.jpg | sand down a paint stick to use as a shim. put double sided tape to hold it in place (very little), or use rubber cement, glue of your choice etc. remember it is something you will have to remove later.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales012.jpg | trace out scale pattern you are going to use. Align the pivot hole on the line you transcribed earlier. I tap a small nail in this hole a little bit to hold the donor scale in place and to give me a reference point for drilling my hole.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales013.jpg | drill 1/16" hole on drill press using nail divot as placement point.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales014.jpg | after drilling move to scroll saw and saw right on the center of line. This leaves alittle fluuf room for sanding. If you are unsure of yourself, saw just to the outside of the line, but this will leave more sanding to get the right contour
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales015.jpg | use 1" wide belt sander to sand contour of scale while keeping it flat on the work table
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales016.jpg | finished contour
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales017.jpg | results of using large belt sander with 80 grit belt moving scale back and forth and round and round to get shapes. This takes a bit of practice and a little artistry.
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| − | </gallery>
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| − | From this point I went to 60 grit paper and sanded by hand to smooth out the edges, round the scales out a bit more and get my shape just right. I proceeded from 60 grit up to 600 grit and then buffed out on a plain buffing wheel. I still need to decide what type of finish I want to screw it up with (I'm very impatient with drying times, so I'll probably dip it in laquer about 5 or 6 times) The blade is fresh out the tumbler. I should have prepped it before I put it in, now I will have to probably go through the progressions on the buffing wheel.
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| − | <gallery widths="400px" heights="267px" perrow="2">
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales018.jpg | fit it up using microfastener hardware and admire - I may pin it after finishes are done, but this makes for a nice test fit.
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales019.jpg | Admire from side
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| − | Image:OnePieceScales020.jpg | Admire while open. You can see the blade needs a bit more work, especially if I want to run with some of the big dogs around here.
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| − | </gallery>
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| − | For me the biggest problem I had was finding the right way to make the slit with having the least amount of curvature (from blade) to straighten out. By standing the work piece on end you take a chance of the blade grabbing an ripping the piece out of the fixture. This can be alsmost eliminated by making the fixture out of hardwood (oak), making it thick enough to hold a good portion of the piece, making sure the piece is tight in the jig and sawing very slowly.
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| − | You don't necessarily need all the tools that I used but it made the process much easier not only in making the scales, but in making the jig as well. For me, pinning 2 piece scales together has been more failure than success due to my impatience, but one piece seem to flow smoother for some reason. It may be more steps but less finesse.
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| − | I hope this helps someone out, it sure was fun. This method for me has opend up the door for a more unique approach on making scales (some designs such as my lady scales need more work but the concept is there). Have fun, I'll try to answer questions. To the gurus on the forum, please pick up and add for what I may have left off.
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| − | Jerry
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| − | === References ===
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| − | <references />
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