Editing Sleeving an oversized pivot

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This article was originally posted on the SRP forums<ref>https://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/32287-illustrated-guide-sleeving-oversized-pivot.html</ref> by gssixgun<ref>gssixgun's SRP user page - https://straightrazorpalace.com/members/gssixgun.html</ref>
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This article was originally posted as [http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/workshop/32287-illustrated-guide-sleeving-oversized-pivot.html] by [http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/members/gssixgun.html gssixgun]
  
When you have an over-sized pivot hole you need to fill that space. You have some options here - some people fill the entire hole with epoxy and then re-drill the hole, some use a combination of a sleeve and the epoxy. I just sleeve it as close as I can get it. My theory is that these razors have been riding around on 1/16 rods for about 100 years so any thing tighter will probably last another 100 years.
 
  
I have a few different sizes of brass tubing in the shop starting with this stuff with a 1/16" inside diameter hole, all of them slip into one another, so I can increase the size of the outside diameter without any trouble (I use the same principle for making brass center pins).
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I'm starting this for Glen's convenience......
  
<gallery caption="" widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Sleeving_an_Oversized_Pivot_-_001.jpg | Once the razor is ready to pin I chose the closest sized tubing to the hole. Sometimes like this razor, I only have to use one sleeve, sometimes two.
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OK I am starting this thread today, As the scales are straight now!!!
Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Sleeving_an_Oversized_Pivot_-_002.jpg | I cut the tubing to approximate size so it will fit inside the tang without rubbing.
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Sleeving_an_Oversized_Pivot_-_003.jpg | I fit it, then smooth up the edges.
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I started with a Dubl Duck Wonderedge with severely warped scales, This is one time I have to mention the owner as he was nice enough to let me experiment on his Wonderedge Thank You, RayG !!!
Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Sleeving_an_Oversized_Pivot_-_004.jpg | The easiest way I have figured out to do this is to put the sleeve over the pin first, note the bearing washer under the sleeve.
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Sleeving_an_Oversized_Pivot_-_005.jpg | Put the razor on, then another bearing washer, then scale and pin as usual.
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We talked about what to do on this one as the blade is in great shape but the scales were shot...Ray and I decided that I could experiment with straightening these and if they were destroyed I would make him a set out of Ebony and do the inlays like Floppyshoes and I did in the Reaper thread.
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The problem with straightening scales has always been the hit or miss heating and bending of the scales. I was looking for a way to eliminate that guess work and come up with a sure fire way of doing it.
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<gallery caption="The beginning, the razor looks good from this angle..." widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_002.jpg | Image 1
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_004.jpg | Image 2
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_005.jpg | Image 3
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_018.jpg | Image 4
 
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The trick has always been to heat the scales and re-bend them, the problem was burning the crap outta yer fingers while trying to get the bends right...Usually ending up with worse warps than you started with.
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Boiling water or steam has always been the safest way, but how to keep the razor hot and fingers not?
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I built a Jig for this out of wood, and adjustable pins.. I drilled the holes through the razor and the wood so that when the pins were tightened the scales would be held straight... I used the #0 wide washers to spread the force, and the hex heads, so I could tighten them easy with the wrenches...
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Dipping the jig with the scales attached loosely then waiting about 15 seconds the scales become flexible, I tightened the pins a little, then re-dipped and re-tightened until the scales were straightened out...
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Then I put them in the fridge for about 15 minutes then took the pins off and the scales are "almost" dead straight.
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<gallery caption="The process of fixing the scales" widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_021.jpg | Image 5
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_024.jpg | Image 6
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_029.jpg | Image 7
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_030.jpg | Image 8
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_031.jpg | Image 9
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Image:Illustrated_Guide_to_Fixing_Warped_Scales_-_038.jpg | Image 10
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</gallery>
  
This is a fast simple solution to over-sized pivot holes, you can probably do without this but as the razor moves and loosens in the scales you can run into problems with the edge hitting the scales and/or wedge it is just way easier to just throw a fast sleeve in there and eliminate any of these problems before they arrise.
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The good news is that it works!!! YEAH !!!! Here are some things I would change...
  
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* Make the jig out of metal not wood, attach a handle or wire to lift it in and out of the pot.
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* Use distilled water, the white coating is from our well water I think, or the wood itself.
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* When scales are this warped there are normally other problems, if you look close there are some tiny pressure cracks right by the center pin hole that I am going to have to be very careful with when I re-pin this razor, so I am not out of the woods yet on this one.
  
== References ==
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Keep in mind that this is the first try at this technique, so go slow and careful when you try it... and keep us informed with your successes and failures!
  
<references />
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== Notes ==
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<references/>
  
[[Category:Blade_Restoration]]
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[[Category:Scale_Repair]]

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