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== Basic straight razor anatomy == | == Basic straight razor anatomy == | ||
− | [[Image:Straight Razor-Basic Anatomy.png|thumb| | + | [[Image:Straight Razor-Basic Anatomy.png|thumb|300px|Basic Straight Razor Anatomy]] Orientation used in the description: the handle to the right, blade to the left, cutting edge pointing downwards. |
;Point/Kopf/Bout/Punta | ;Point/Kopf/Bout/Punta | ||
:the left end of the blade. | :the left end of the blade. | ||
;Blade, with a Back/Ruecken/Dos/Lomo | ;Blade, with a Back/Ruecken/Dos/Lomo | ||
− | :the part of the blade opposite the cutting edge | + | :the part of the blade opposite the cutting edge, and an Schneide/Cutting edge/Tranchant/Corte (pointing downwards). |
;Tang/Erl/talon/Espiga | ;Tang/Erl/talon/Espiga | ||
:the complete non-cutting metal part fixed to the blade, serving as a grip for the index, middle, ring, and little finger. | :the complete non-cutting metal part fixed to the blade, serving as a grip for the index, middle, ring, and little finger. | ||
;Jimps | ;Jimps | ||
− | :ridges | + | :raised ridges along the tang present on some razors as a gripping aid. |
;Double stabilizing piece/Doppelansatz/Double piece stabilisatrice/Doble pieza estabilizadora | ;Double stabilizing piece/Doppelansatz/Double piece stabilisatrice/Doble pieza estabilizadora | ||
− | :two close parallel vertical rims situated where the tang continues to the cutting part on the knife. Sometimes there is only one stabilizing piece | + | :two close parallel vertical rims situated where the tang continues to the cutting part on the knife. Sometimes there is only one stabilizing piece. |
;Decorated tang/Kranzangel/Talon decore/Espiga decorada | ;Decorated tang/Kranzangel/Talon decore/Espiga decorada | ||
:some sort of art where the blade stops and the tang begin. | :some sort of art where the blade stops and the tang begin. | ||
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;Trade mark/Zeichen/Marque/Marca | ;Trade mark/Zeichen/Marque/Marca | ||
:the mark/text graved on the tang. | :the mark/text graved on the tang. | ||
− | ;The Ridge/Der Wall | + | ;The Ridge/Der Wall |
− | :parallel to the back and the edge, running from point to the stabilizing piece, is a thickening of the blade, the purpose of which is to stabilize against torsion in the horizontal plane, and to give the edge elasticity. The stabilizing piece gives the blade torsion resistance in the vertical plane. If the ridge is close to the edge, it is called | + | :parallel to the back and the edge, running from point to the stabilizing piece, is a thickening of the blade, the purpose of which is to stabilize against torsion in the horizontal plane, and to give the edge elasticity. The stabilizing piece gives the blade torsion resistance in the vertical plane. If the ridge is close to the edge, it is called =BC hollow ground, the lowest grade of hollow ground; if it is close to the back, it is called 1/1 or full hollow ground; =BD and =BE are in-between. |
== The blade == | == The blade == | ||
− | === Metal | + | === Metal === |
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+ | Pure iron is a relatively malleable metal, which cannot be honed to get a sharp edge. Steel is an alloy of iron with a certain proportion of carbon. Higher carbon content makes steel harder, thus allowing a sharp edge to be produced, but at the same time making it more prone to breaking. Steels used for straight razor blades (and cutlery in general) typically have 0.5-1.5% carbon by mass. | ||
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+ | However, the carbon content is not the only factor which determines the properties of a steel. Other metals are usually present, either voluntarily added or because they exist in the iron ore : nickel, vanadium, chromium, molybdenum are among the main "steel modifiers". In particular, stainless steel contains a certain proportion of chromium. Many razors use stainless steel blades. The most obvious effect is that those blades are not exposed to rust. Also, stainless steel is harder, thus requiring a slightly different approach to honing, but they also can keep their edge for longer. | ||
− | + | Aside from the chemical composition, the properties of steel are also a function of how atoms are arranged inside it. This is a function of the forging process. When steel is heated to near the point of fusion, and cooled down to ambient temperature slowly, the atomic structure evolves with the temperature. However, by heating the steel slowly, and cooling it quickly (usually by plunging it into water), a blacksmith can force the atomic structure which normally exist at high temperature to be kept in low temperature (the atoms do not have enough time to move during the cooling). This process, known as quenching, was developed empirically by generations of smiths, and it's infinite variations makes much of the know-how in blade making. | |
− | + | === Point styles === | |
− | + | The point of the blade can be shaped in several styles, the commonest being the round point and the square point (or ‘spike’). But there are also half-round, oblique, notched and French points. The sharp corner on the square point razor is useful for exact work, say, around the edge of a moustache. However, it is also easy to cut yourself with, so most beginners will want a round point as this is more forgiving.<ref>http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/downloads//ec_tmp/The-Straight-Razor-Shave.pdf</ref> | |
− | + | [[Image:Point.jpg]] | |
=== Widths and grinds === | === Widths and grinds === | ||
− | The width of the blade is traditionally measured in 8th (or 16th) of inch (a inch being equal to | + | The width of the blade is traditionally measured in 8th (or 16th) of inch (a inch being equal to 2.54 mm). For instance, a razor with an 18 mm large blade is called a 5/8. Width vary from 3/8 to 8/8 (9.5 to 25.4 mm) or even 9/8, with 5/8 and 6/8 blades being the most common. |
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[[Image:Henckels-Chart.jpg]] | [[Image:Henckels-Chart.jpg]] | ||
− | + | The smith can subtract a varying amount of steel to produce a hollow blade. The chart show various levels of hollow blades, from "extra hollow" to "true wedge". An hollow blade produce a crystalline sound while cutting an hair. | |
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− | The smith can subtract a varying amount of steel to produce a hollow blade. The chart show various levels of hollow blades, from "extra hollow" to "true wedge". | ||
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=== Shoulder styles === | === Shoulder styles === | ||
− | + | [[Image:Shoulder bis.jpg]] | |
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− | [[Image:Shoulder bis.jpg]] | ||
=== Tail styles === | === Tail styles === | ||
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[[Image:Spineprofile.jpg]] | [[Image:Spineprofile.jpg]] | ||
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== Scale materials == | == Scale materials == | ||
− | Scales come in a variety of materials depending | + | Scales come in a variety of materials depending of the price range, manufacturer, and era of the razor. Natural materials include wood and animal products, while plastics are also widely used. One must not be ideological about materials, as there are very good razors with plastic scales. Plastics scales are the cheapest to make from an industrial perspective, but requiere too much tooling for amateurs. Wood is therefore the preferred choice for homemade replacement scales, as it can be machined using artisanal tools. |
=== Wood === | === Wood === | ||
− | Various kinds of wood, more | + | Various kinds of wood, more of less "noble", are used to make scales. Ebony is hard, dense and lasting, it is used notably by the common [[Dovo Silver Steel]] "Ebenholz" (German for ebony). Boxes is another good wood, used among other by [[Thiers Issard]]. Snakewood, Cedar, Bocote Rosewood, Olive wood and among the quality woods used for scales. |
− | Various techniques are used to protect the wood from moisture and mold : [[Finishing scales using wax|wax]], varnish, [[Finishing scales using epoxy resin| | + | Various techniques are used to protect the wood from moisture and mold : [[Finishing scales using wax|wax]], varnish, [[Finishing scales using epoxy resin|expoxy coating]]... Using those techniques, wood becomes a long lasting material. |
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=== Metal === | === Metal === | ||
− | Stainless | + | Stainless steel are a bit heavier than wood or plastics, but are lasting and noble. [[Dovo|Dovo "All Stainless Steel"]] and [[Wapienica]] uses such scales. Aluminium scales can be found on vintage razors too. Silver is even used on some antiques. |
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=== Animal products === | === Animal products === | ||
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Earlier razors used numerous materials derived from the animal reign. The use of those materials have declined, because of competition from cheap plastics and the ban of some materials who were derived from endangered species. | Earlier razors used numerous materials derived from the animal reign. The use of those materials have declined, because of competition from cheap plastics and the ban of some materials who were derived from endangered species. | ||
− | *Bone ( | + | *Bone (presumably from cattle) is still used on contemporary procuced razors, ie [[Dovo|Dovo "Bismarck" 5/8]]. |
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*Horn (from cattle, bison, buffalo) makes very good scales. This noble material requires specific maintenance (see [[Illustrated guide to fixing warped horn scales]]). Note that the same product (basically keratin) can be produced from cattle hoof. | *Horn (from cattle, bison, buffalo) makes very good scales. This noble material requires specific maintenance (see [[Illustrated guide to fixing warped horn scales]]). Note that the same product (basically keratin) can be produced from cattle hoof. | ||
− | *Mother-of-pearl | + | *Mother-of-pearl is a very beautiful, but very expensive material, used by some razors such as [[Dovo|a Dovo]]. |
− | *Turtle scales | + | *Turtle scales are a premium choice. Sea turtles hunt is now banned. |
− | *Ivory | + | *Ivory, which makes the scales of some high-end vntage razors, is now banned, except in fossil form (see [[Dovo|Dovo "Mammut" 110]]). |
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=== Composites with natural fibers === | === Composites with natural fibers === | ||
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Those materials are sorts of laminated, plywoods, and so on. | Those materials are sorts of laminated, plywoods, and so on. | ||
− | * | + | *Mircata was widely used at a time. It is a plastic (epoxy or cyanoacrylate) with embedded natural materials, such as linen, or even paper. |
*Stamina is a similar material, made of wood and phenol. | *Stamina is a similar material, made of wood and phenol. | ||
=== Plastics and elastomers === | === Plastics and elastomers === | ||
− | + | *Celluloid was historically the first plastic ever, developed as a substitute for ivory (and still sold as faux ivory now). Made from a chemical reaction between paper and nitric acid, made imputrescible by the addition of formal, it could be called a bioplastic. It's extremely flammable. Relatively few new straight razors use celluloid scales, except as faux ivory or nacre. But a great many vintage razors have them. | |
− | + | *Various thermoplastics (ie, polyethylene) and thermosetting plastics (ie, expoxy) now makes the scales of most entry-level razors made in the last decades. | |
− | * | + | *Bakelite (commercial name for polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride) was popular in the first half of the 20th century. Like celluloid, it's one of the first plastics ever. This thermosetting polymer is produced from phenol and formaldehyde (both are basic products from the petrochemical industry), wood flour can be added as a filler. |
− | *Various | ||
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*Rubber (natural or artificial) has also been used. | *Rubber (natural or artificial) has also been used. | ||
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== Buying razors == <!-- FIX LATER | == Buying razors == <!-- FIX LATER | ||
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− | === Serious | + | === Serious Issues === |
− | ==== Frowning | + | ==== Frowning Blades ==== |
When a blade is wider at the heel and the toe, it is said to be "frowning." A frowning blade is very difficult to hone if it can be honed at all and so should be avoided if possible. | When a blade is wider at the heel and the toe, it is said to be "frowning." A frowning blade is very difficult to hone if it can be honed at all and so should be avoided if possible. | ||
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==== Edge damage ==== | ==== Edge damage ==== | ||
− | Chips, nicks, or cracks in the edge can also prevent a blade from being honed. Very small chips or nicks can take many hours to hone out. Larger chips and nicks as well as cracks can mean that a razor needs to be reground before it is usable. [[Image:Edge Damage on Mehl.jpg|thumb|300px]] | + | Chips, nicks, or cracks in the edge can also prevent a blade from being honed. Very small chips or nicks can take many hours to hone out. Larger chips and nicks as well as cracks can mean that a razor needs to be reground before it is usable. [[Image:Edge Damage on Mehl.jpg|thumb|300px|Seriously damaged edge, probably caused by a combination of too much pressure during bevel setting (see long scratch marks) and overly aggressive polishing.]] |
− | ==== Heavy | + | ==== Heavy Pitting ==== |
Heavy pitting that covers a large portion of the blade will require [[Hand sanding a blade|sanding a lot of material off of the blade]] in order to get rid of the pitting and corrosion. If the pitting or the corrosion extend to the edge of the blade, it is likely that the blade cannot be made usable again and therefore should be avoided. | Heavy pitting that covers a large portion of the blade will require [[Hand sanding a blade|sanding a lot of material off of the blade]] in order to get rid of the pitting and corrosion. If the pitting or the corrosion extend to the edge of the blade, it is likely that the blade cannot be made usable again and therefore should be avoided. | ||
− | + | ==== Extreme Warping ==== | |
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− | ==== Extreme | ||
A blade that twists or is otherwise warped visibly is likely to be difficult or impossible to hone. Many older blades maybe uneven when placed on a flat hone and can be honed by using specific techniques like a rolling hone stroke or a concentrated x-pattern. Extreme warping is observable with the naked eye and should be avoided. | A blade that twists or is otherwise warped visibly is likely to be difficult or impossible to hone. Many older blades maybe uneven when placed on a flat hone and can be honed by using specific techniques like a rolling hone stroke or a concentrated x-pattern. Extreme warping is observable with the naked eye and should be avoided. | ||
− | Warped scales, however, can be fixed, cf. the [[Illustrated Guide to Fixing Warped Scales]]. It should be noted, though, that removing the scales may like result in breakage. A relatively safe way to remove and later re-attach scales is described in the [[Illustrated Guide to Un-pinning and Re-pinning]]. | + | Warped scales, however, can be fixed, cf. the [[Illustrated Guide to Fixing Warped Scales]]. It should be noted, though, that removing the scales may like result in breakage. A relatively safe way to remove and later re-attach scales is described in the [[Illustrated Guide to Un-pinning and Re-pinning]]. |
− | === Questions to | + | === Questions to Ask A Seller === |
Despite their best efforts, many sellers have limited knowledge of what is essential information to be put into a classified. If any of the following are missing from the description of a razor that is for sale, you may want to enquire further to avoid later disputes over lack of quality. | Despite their best efforts, many sellers have limited knowledge of what is essential information to be put into a classified. If any of the following are missing from the description of a razor that is for sale, you may want to enquire further to avoid later disputes over lack of quality. | ||
#When was the blade last honed? | #When was the blade last honed? | ||
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#Does it center in the scales without the edge making contact on either side? | #Does it center in the scales without the edge making contact on either side? | ||
#Is the pivot pin tight? | #Is the pivot pin tight? |