Restoring a Straight Razor

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This article was originally posted on SRP[1] by gssixgun[2]

A Forewarning[edit | edit source]

Spalting is a product of the decay process. Spalted woods display those patterns because of fungus eating its way through the grain lines. The sugars in the wood react with the fungi causing the various color patterns. Once dried, the fungus becomes dormant, not dead. If the fungal spores get wet, they may very well resume growth. This can happen in the wood, or it can happen in your respiratory system. It is always wise when sanding to wear some sort of filter mask or respirator. However, when sanding spalted wood, consider it a must. There have been documented cases of severe respiratory infections due to inhalation of fungal spores while sanding spalted woods.

Please refer to this chart for a list of toxic woods and the potential risks of working with them.

Background[edit | edit source]

This is a thread that I have been wanting to do for awhile, but these things take time, and half the time when I go out to the shop I forget the camera.... This restore I finally got pics of just about the whole process so I figured I would do a complete restore in pictures....

The Razor Used In This Tutorial[edit | edit source]

This is a C.W.Dahlgren Eskilstuna Medalier Chicago 1893 the proof marks show 1886, 1888, 1881, 1878 the frameback is stamped Sanvik Bessamer Stal.....

The scales are Spalted Apple, the wedge is Brown Ebony.... Nickel Silver pins and SS washers... This one has 15 coats of Satin Wipe on Poly for the finish...

Starting out the razor has a very small touch of rust and some patina, the scales are shot...

The Process In Pictures[edit | edit source]

Q&A[edit | edit source]

Q. Glen, as usual, awesome job! I'd like to know a little more about how you go about doing the wipe-on poly with the inside of the scales and the wedge. Do you coat the entire inside of the scale (once or more)? Do you coat the wedge prior to installation? Do you pin the wedge end and then coat all of it as a unit?

A. First thing I do is 3 coats of finish on the inside, after that really dries, I put two pieces of double side tape on the edge of what ever mailing box is in the room at the time.... I stick the scales to the box where the wedge would go, and then start the process of doing the outside coats with a box to hang unto and the scales securely attached to it.... This is for wipe on finishes....

As to the wedge end ??? Yes the wedge is coated to as I do the outside, I do 3-5 coats depending on the finish I am using, this is for wood/bone wedges...

Advanced scale repair[edit | edit source]

Let's look at a slightly more advanced scale repair... Basics being Glue / Epoxy / Acetone / Fiberglass etc. Starting with a set of broken scales for a C-MON, these were actually broken at the pivot so this is my only option for the repair. To make this more difficult these scales have inlays and bolsters.[3]

Notes[edit | edit source]