Editing Making scale designs on the computer
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Having said that, it is still possible to follow the same procedure using a digital camera, but you, yourself, will be responsible for setting up the shot properly (''This is essentially copy photography'') and then later the additional steps of resizing your image so that it prints out at the correct size in the real world. Any discussion of those techniques is definitely outside the scope of this article. So, moving right along…<br> | Having said that, it is still possible to follow the same procedure using a digital camera, but you, yourself, will be responsible for setting up the shot properly (''This is essentially copy photography'') and then later the additional steps of resizing your image so that it prints out at the correct size in the real world. Any discussion of those techniques is definitely outside the scope of this article. So, moving right along…<br> | ||
− | <gallery caption=" | + | <gallery caption="Your caption here." widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2"> |
− | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer04 scan interface.jpg|Here is a view of the scanner interface. | + | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer04 scan interface.jpg|Here is a view of the scanner interface. There are so many scanner programs out there that yours is bound to be different. I’m not scanning this with that white flip-up cover down behind the razor, so that my background is black. This isn’t a great problem for us. In fact, we are also not concerned with color or even absolute sharpness of detail. What we want is essentially a silhouette to show us the shape of the blade and the location of the rear pivot hole. |
− | + | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer05 scan.jpg|Here is the scanned image of my blade. Pretty nice. | |
− | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer05 scan.jpg|Here is the scanned image of | + | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer06 cutout scan.jpg|I then went into a photo retouch program and masked out the black of the background. Yeah, yeah, I said it wasn’t necessary, but I like a clean presentation and it certainly helps keep the graphics simple and obvious. But, like I said, this step isn’t strictly necessary, as you will see later. |
− | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer06 cutout scan.jpg| | + | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer07 scale design.jpg|I’ve loaded the image into my vector (linework) program and have used it as a background reference around which to design my scale form. I have made a razor scale form which I think fits fairly well to this particular blade. I have also indicated where the pins will go. I very clearly put a centering “X” where the pins are, as this will help me later on in the shop when I have to start punching and drilling. |
− | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer07 scale design.jpg| | ||
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− | + | I’m not going to cover all of the different aspects of making good scales, but here are a few hints. | |
[[Image:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer08 detail arrows.jpg]] | [[Image:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer08 detail arrows.jpg]] | ||
− | Never forget to make your scales wide enough so that the bottom of the blade has no chance to poke out and cut you when the blade is closed (see ''' | + | Never forget to make your scales wide enough so that the bottom of the blade has no chance to poke out and cut you when the blade is closed (see ‘'''A'''’ and ‘'''B'''’). |
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− | + | Designing scales on the computer this way allows us to ‘see’ the required clearance for the front wedge ahead of time. I made two arcs (‘'''C'''’) in the linework program, both centered on the rear pivot hole (‘'''D'''’). One arc just touches the absolute end of the razor blade. The second arc has a radius which is a slim 1/16” ( 2mm ) wider. Having those arcs to look at lets me decide how far the toe of the scales has to extend in order to give me good, stable amount of area for the wedge and front pin. | |
− | + | Notice the extension of the scales behind the rear pin (‘'''D'''’). When using Micarta I could actually make that shorter, but when using other materials like wood, plastic or bone it is a good thing as it adds strength and somewhat reduces the tendency of the scales to split around that hole. | |
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+ | <gallery caption="Your caption here." widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2"> | ||
+ | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer09 layers.jpg|Something to keep in mind is the appropriate use of the ‘layers’ features within your graphics programs. You can see that the elements of my drawing are arranged so that each has a separate layer. The original scanned image is in the back (lowest layer) and the linework has been added on top of it. This keeps our image clean, organized and manageable. | ||
+ | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer10 layers OFF.jpg|I’m also using the layer visibility feature. Just before printing this out to paper, I turned off the visibility of the layers with the arcs and the background photo. See, I told you we didn’t really need to do any fancy work on that image. Don’t forget to save your work. You might find that you have to print it out again. Another possibility is to take the form you developed here and scale it up or down, or subtly alter its form to fit other blades. | ||
+ | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer11 printout.jpg|Here is the printout of the scale form. All I have to do now is cut it out and stick it onto my scale material. | ||
+ | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer12 ruler check.jpg|If you have any concerns that your printout does not match the size of your scanned object, then the best thing to do is run a size test. What you see below is a printout of a measuring tape which I scanned. The printout definitely matches the dimensions of the real-world object. Should you decide to use a digital camera instead of a flatbed scanner, you could include an object of known size (like a ruler) in the same shot as your razor blade. It will assist you in sizing the image correctly. | ||
</gallery> | </gallery> | ||
− | Last of all, we are going to stick our printout onto the scale material. | + | Last of all, we are going to stick our printout onto the scale material. My adhesive of choice has always been good, old rubber cement. It is inexpensive, does not stain, goes on easily and (more importantly) comes off easily when you no longer want it. |
− | <gallery caption=" | + | <gallery caption="Your caption here." widths="350px" heights="300px" perrow="2"> |
− | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer13 rubber cement.jpg|Rubber cement can be used on only a single surface | + | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer13 rubber cement.jpg|Rubber cement can be used on only a single surface, but in doing so, you end up with a weak bond. We want something stronger. To this end, we will use the rubber cement in exactly the same way that one uses contact cement. We will brush it onto both surfaces to be joined. Let it dry for about five or ten minutes. Then bring the two rubber cement coated surfaces together. Press firmly or even tap lightly with a soft, rubber hammer. When done correctly, that bond will hold up to sanding operations and even when cutting the Micarta with a scroll saw. You will find that you can still pry the surfaces apart with relative ease when you are finished. And any leftovers of rubber cement can just be rubbed away with the fingers. |
− | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer14 ready to cut.jpg|And here is the final result. | + | File:Ignatz-making-scale-designs-computer14 ready to cut.jpg|And here is the final result. The Micarta sheets have been rubber cemented to each other and the scale printout has been rubber cemented on top of them. |
</gallery> | </gallery> | ||
− | + | I’m ready to head off into the shop. But that is for another time… | |
== Acknowledgements == | == Acknowledgements == | ||
− | This article is based on original work by Ignatz<ref> | + | This article is based on original work by Ignatz<ref>http://straightrazorplace.com/forums/workshop/40416-making-scale-designs-computer.html</ref> |
== References == | == References == |