Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions fall into several categories. Click on the appropriate category below for those questions and answers:

Shaving

Is straight razor shaving really rocket science?

We believe that some people on this site have gone way overboard on the technical issues of shaving! Straight razor shaving is not rocket science! While you may even encounter the occasional discussion about the micron size on newspaper, this is nothing that will likely affect your shaving experience at all.

The bottom line is, at least for your first razor whether new or used, you should make sure it is truly shave ready by having it hand honed by an expert. Shave readiness is the actual crucial factor which can make or break your shaving experience and will show you what sharp truly means. We have seen many new users give up on straight razor shaving because they tried to start with a razor that was not really shave ready, which resulted in painful and inadequate shaves.

Starting with straight shaving

What is the minimal setup for shaving with straight razors?

The very minimal setup will consist of a truly Shave Ready straight razor, shaving foam, and a leather strop. You will need the strop to maintain the edge of your razor.

Additional equipment may include, but not be limited to, the following:

• a shaving brush, preferably a badger hair one;
• shaving soap or cream to replace the shaving foam, as quality soaps or creams will provide much better lubrication, moisturising, and protection from nicks and ingrown hairs;
• some means of honing your razor once the strop does not provide a sufficiently keen edge anymore.

Is the razor I got (or plan to get) really shave ready?

There seems to be a lot of confusion on what shave ready means to dealers, and what a truly shave ready razor means to an experienced shaver. Shave ready according to a dealer (generally concerning new razors) are razors that have been mechanically sharpened (generally on a waterstone type wheel) and then hand honed on a stone of some sort.

So if it is brand new and says "shave ready" why is it not really shave ready??

The reason for this is most probably due to the cost of the man hours required to make a razor truly shave ready for our purposes. The cost of workmanship would drive the razor prices up and prevent a company from being as competitive in the marketplace with another company that does not spend this time and energy on finishing, and yet can still call their razors shave ready. These razors are sharp of course, and you could shave with them, so don’t think that you are getting ripped off or lied too.

The difference between a factory shave ready razor and a razor that has been honed by an expert is the experience level, time, techniques as well as equipment spent honing. The fact that their honing is done by hand with no machine grinding makes a VERY large difference in the final edge, and of course the closer detail to the edge that can be observed while hand honing.

The shave from an expertly honed razor will be a much more comfortable, close, and smooth shave than a factory sharpened TI, DOVO, or what have you. This means little or no pulling of your facial hair and less razor burn, as well as a marker for the time when you start honing for yourself.

How to get a truly shave ready Razor?

If you buy a razor from Classic Shaving they offer honing services via Lynn Abrams which really makes it convenient to get a brand new shave ready razor that will make your learning curve easier. Straight Razor Place also has a Classifieds section where it is possible to buy a used and/or refurbished razor that has also been hand honed and is truly shave ready. This will allow the new shaver to get a quality straight razor that is really ready to shave with. This option generally cost less money than a factory new razor which is not really shave ready according to our high standards.

Will shaving with a straight razor save me money?

Depends on several things. Consider that disposable cartridges cost $2-$3 and need to be replaced every week or two. This means $20-$30 every 2-3 months, which is the average time between honing of a straight razors. Honing services seem to be around $15-20, so it may be somewhat cheaper. In order to save money you should touch up your razor (using a pasted strop or a finishing hone).

How much are you spending on shaving right now?

Comparing straight razor shaving costs with cartridge razor shaving costs:

New straight razor: $75 New strop: $50 Sharpening service/method: $30 / year

versus:

New cartridge razor handle: $10 New cartridge blades: $25 for 3 months' worth (or $100 for a year's worth)

How long will it take for the straight razor shaver to be saving money from the time he starts shaving with the straight exclusively compared to exclusively shaving with a cartridge razor? Assuming that he or she shaves with the same frequency using either kind of razor:

$75 + $50 + ($30 x years) = $10 + ($100 x years) years = 1.6

By the above assumptions, you will be saving money in one year and 8 months. The more you shave, the faster you'll be saving money. If you only shave once a week, or only trim your beard, it may be 4 or 5 years before you're saving money (assuming inflation on the cost of cartridges, but flat cost for sharpening method). If you prefer to buy cheap old stuff, you can save even more with the straight over the cartridge method. With a $10 eBay special, a $30 B/S/T or household item strop as opposed to buying used cartridges (eww) you will be saving money with the straight method in a matter of weeks

You can argue that brushes, soaps, oil etc are used by a higher percentage of straight users as cartridge users, but it really isn't necessary. My first week of straight shaving was only with hot water, shampoo, and fingers. The rest is extra based on knowledge of what works better and preference

Hot Lather any tips?

Here's a tip for getting a really nice hot lather to start your shave. I get steaming hot water directly from our tap. Whether you use cream or a cake soap, use just the tip of the brush to absorb the soap. Don't mush down on the entire brush hair to generate your lather. Once that is done, you can work the brush on the face to get the hot water from below the brush tip to improve the lather and it is usually nice and hot.

Razors

What do the numbers 5/8, 6/8, 11/16 mean in reference to razors?

This is the width of the blade in inches which is the main factor in how 'large' a razor feels. It is measured from the edge to generally the spine (some manufacturers measure to the inside of the spine, some to the outside).

Razor Manufacturers

Razors considered good

While the quality of a shave is highly subjective, there is a certain consensus amongst the members of SRP that razors listed in the article Good Straight Razor Brands will usually deliver good shaves.

Razors considered bad

While the quality of a shave is highly subjective, there is a certain consensus amongst the members of SRP that razors listed in the article Brands of Straight Razors to avoid will usually not deliver good shaves.

Are Zeepk products any good?

We believe both their razors and strops to be worthless junk, and therefore warrant an extra entry in this FAQ. Brands of Straight Razors to avoid has a more detailed explanation.

Using a Larger width razor

I've been noticing that when I am using a larger width blade like a 7/8 or 8/8 that I am flattening out the angle of the blade as I shave my chin. When this happens the shave is not quite as smooth and is a little uncomfortable. As soon as I recognize this and bring the angle back to a more upright angle (approx. 30 degree), I am back to a smooth and comfy shave. Keep an eye on this when your are shaving with any size blade

Stropping

How many passes should I use?

Because of the variables in this question, there is no definite answer. There appears to be some consensus that 30 to 60 passes on a leather strop will yield optimum results.

What speed should I use when stropping?

A slow speed has been shown to be ineffective when stropping.

Illinois Strops

What do the numbers on Illinois strops mean?

The model numbers mostly refer to size differences except for the No.127/827.

In the "modern" line up the No.206 is quite small, maybe 1 3/4" or 2" wide. The No.835 is next in line and maybe 2 1/4" wide. The No.127 and No.827 are both 2 1/2" wide and about 24" long. No.127 is the typical Illinois top grain cowhide, the No.827 is called their Russian strop and uses the reverse side of the leather instead of the outer surface. The No.361 is a more traditionally styled model without the handle.

There are many other model numbers that were used years ago and frequently turn up on ebay.

Why do Illinois strops have a horse head if they are made from cow hide?

I think it is just tradition. Back in the day almost every strop was horsehide so it is probably just a hold over. On my first strops years ago I used an embossed horsehead logo too before switching to the oval logo stamps I use now.

There are a few barber supply places on the web representing the Illinois strops as horsehide but Fromm International's (Illinois Strops) own promotional material says cowhide for all of the models.

What does "PULL" mean, when it comes to stropping?

It is a term that talks about how the razors slides along the strop. More "PULL" the sharper the razor or that the razor is Shave ready.

Honing

Why do certain razors require more or less honing than others?

There are a number of reasons this why some razors require more honing than others:

1. The material that your razor is made from will determine how much hand honing is required and how long your edge will remain sharp. Stainless steel for instance takes more work to achieve the same sharpness as carbon steel, but will also stay sharper longer.
2. Also it has been mentioned that if a razor has more of a wedge shape (less hollowing) it will generally require more honing to achieve the same sharpness as a razor that has been partially or fully hollowed. This is due to the amount of metal that must be removed to achieve that perfect edge.
3. If a razor has a dull edge then it will take a LOT of work just to set a bevel and get the razor to a level of knife sharpness. Razors with chips in the edge and/or corroded steel could take a lot of work before you even reach the good steel that will take a quality edge.

What other factors influence the edge of the blade?

The ability to take an edge and keep it is the result of the type of metal used to make the blade and the process used in manufacture. Simple steels with few alloying elements rely solely on the formation of iron carbides for their hardness. Steels with more alloying elements require a more complicated hardening process at different heats for different amounts of time.

So it can be down to the quality and care taken with the manufacture of my blade?

Yes. The temperatures at which the blade is tempered range from 430 - 600 degrees Fahrenheit. Tempering is a softening process which also makes the metal tougher. Hardened steel that is not tempered is very brittle and not tough at all. Tempering can be done in a toaster oven, a low temperature kiln, or in a forge - be it gas or coal. Tempering can also be done in a lead bath as the temperature of molten lead is 600 degrees Fahrenheit. The end result of all this is a blade that can take an edge and stay sharp due to a variety of factors.

What hones can be used to sharpen straight razors?

That will depend on the task at hand. Hones roughly fall into three categories: Bevel establishment, sharpening, and polishing. See What hone(s) do I need?.

Are there any hones that I shouldn't use on my razors?

That will depend on the task at hand. If unsure, you should try to find an answer in the honing forum. Failing that, you should post your question there, giving as much detail about your razor and the hone in question to help other members identify your potential problems.

How long do I need to hone my razor?

Until you are happy with the shave it gives you.

I keep hearing about a pyramid - what is it?

A honing scheme, usually involving hones produced by Norton. See Norton Pyramid Honing Guide.

What hones can be used to sharpen straight razors?

See the honing category, especially the Progressive Honing Guide.

How long do I need to hone my razor?

Until you have established shave readiness, i.e. when you are happy with the shave it gives you. Sharpness tests explained should give you an idea when that is actually the case.

What is back honing?

Honing a razor with the edge trailing rather than edge leading is a back hone pass. A stropping motion. A reverse honing pass.

What is a double bevel?

The idea is that you hone a razor with your finish hone using traditional techniques. Then, you add a couple layers of tape to the back. Then, hone it very lightly once again, with your finish hone. The tape increases the honing bevel angle by a couple of degrees, giving the finish hone a fresh edge to work on.

How long will a razor stay sharp?

There are too many variables involved to give a definite answer (quality of razor steel, stropping and shaving techniques, etc.). The general consensus seems to be that a shave ready razor will, if treated properly, stay sharp for between 15 and 50 shaves. After that, it will require touching up with a pasted strop or a finishing hone.

Should I tape the spine of the razor?

The back of the blade should be protected with electrical tape for all the bench hones. It protects the blade back from being scratched by the hone.. Keep in mind that you will need to tape the razor in exactly the same way as the first time when honing it again.

Are there any videos of honing?

We have collected some videos from the web. See Honing videos.

How do you get more of a edge from honing

For those of us using the Norton 4K/8K and getting a razor to the point of nice shaving, but want just a little better shave, you can use either an Escher or Coticule and obtain a really super finished edge. In these situations I will do 3-5 strokes on the Norton 8K followed by 10-15 strokes on either the Escher or Coticule. May take a couple of times, but the results are usually worth it. I do strop and test shave with each rotation to see where I'm at. Remember, this rotation is after the normal 4K/8K Pyramid.

How to Tell if You're Razor is poorly Ground

If you guys ever receive a razor that has been poorly ground or has a lot of flattening of the spine and want to see how much honing you will have to do or decide whether to have it reground, here is a neat tip. Take either your Norton 8K stone or Coticule or whatever polishing stone you use and give the razor 5-10 X pattern strokes. Then, look at the edge and see if it is shiny all the way to the cutting surface. Depending on how far up the edge the shiny part is will be an indication of how much work you will have to do. If shiny all the way to the cutting part of the edge, you can start with a regular honing pyramid.