Difference between revisions of "Shaving Soap"
m (Started fixing formatting. Some images missing.) |
|||
Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
− | == | + | == Ingredients in shaving preparations == |
− | + | === Softening the beard === | |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
Since dry beard hair is about as tough to cut as copper wire of the same diameter, a means to soften the | Since dry beard hair is about as tough to cut as copper wire of the same diameter, a means to soften the | ||
hair must be used. Hot water alone will do this to some extent; but, some chemical help is needed. | hair must be used. Hot water alone will do this to some extent; but, some chemical help is needed. | ||
These chemicals can be natural, man-made or a combination. | These chemicals can be natural, man-made or a combination. | ||
+ | |||
They are called softeners, moisturizers, or humectants. What they do is bind, hold, combine with, or draw | They are called softeners, moisturizers, or humectants. What they do is bind, hold, combine with, or draw | ||
− | moisture from the air. Some are better suited for use on hair than on skin. Some examples are | + | moisture from the air. Some are better suited for use on hair than on skin. Some examples are: |
− | Natural: | + | '''Natural:''' |
− | Allantoin (Comfrey Root) | + | * Allantoin (Comfrey Root) |
− | Aloe-Vera Gel (Liquid pressed from inner leaves) | + | * Aloe-Vera Gel (Liquid pressed from inner leaves) |
− | Apricot Extract | + | * Apricot Extract |
− | Castor Oil | + | * Castor Oil |
− | Grapefruit Leaf Extract | + | * Grapefruit Leaf Extract |
− | Hydrolyzed Whole Wheat Protein | + | * Hydrolyzed Whole Wheat Protein |
− | Olive Oil | + | * Olive Oil |
− | Papaya Extract | + | * Papaya Extract |
− | Man-Made: | + | '''Man-Made:''' |
− | Lactamide MEA | + | * Lactamide MEA |
− | Methyl Gluceth-10 | + | * Methyl Gluceth-10 |
− | Panthenol | + | * Panthenol |
− | Phytantriol | + | * Phytantriol |
− | Propylene Glycol | + | * Propylene Glycol |
− | Retinyl Palmitate | + | * Retinyl Palmitate |
− | Sodium PCA | + | * Sodium PCA |
− | + | === Conditioning and protecting the skin === | |
Shaving will irritate and damage the skin. So it must be protected, conditioned, and lubricated. Some of | Shaving will irritate and damage the skin. So it must be protected, conditioned, and lubricated. Some of | ||
the chemicals that soften the beard hair can also be used for the skin. Some examples are- | the chemicals that soften the beard hair can also be used for the skin. Some examples are- | ||
− | Natural: | + | '''Natural:''' |
− | Aloe-Vera oil & gel | + | * Aloe-Vera oil & gel |
− | Apricot Kernel Oil | + | * Apricot Kernel Oil |
− | Borage Oil | + | * Borage Oil |
− | Carrot Oil | + | * Carrot Oil |
− | Fractioned Coconut Oil | + | * Fractioned Coconut Oil |
− | Jojoba | + | * Jojoba |
− | Kukui Nut Oil | + | * Kukui Nut Oil |
− | Rice Bran Oil | + | * Rice Bran Oil |
− | Rosehip Seed Oil | + | * Rosehip Seed Oil |
− | Man-Made: | + | '''Man-Made:''' |
− | C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | + | * C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate |
− | Caprylic Triglycerides | + | * Caprylic Triglycerides |
− | Cetyl Alcohol | + | * Cetyl Alcohol |
− | Dimethicone | + | * Dimethicone |
− | Glycereth-26 | + | * Glycereth-26 |
− | Methyl Gluceth- 10 | + | * Methyl Gluceth- 10 |
− | Lubricants | + | === Lubricants === |
Any shaving product with oils and conditioners will provide some lubrication. There is one material, | Any shaving product with oils and conditioners will provide some lubrication. There is one material, | ||
Line 65: | Line 63: | ||
− | + | == Types of Shaving Products == | |
+ | |||
+ | O my, so many to chose from. Soap, Oils, creams, lotions, and stuff in cans. For the most part, all choices except soaps will be formulated from mainly man-made ingredients. This is not necessarily bad, just a cheaper, less effective product. Most will have water, binders, stabilizers, thickeners and emulsifiers as the main ingredients and are applied to the face without a brush. | ||
− | + | If this is the type of product that you wish to use, stay with Poraso or Musgo products. These are the best of the non-brush products. | |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | If this is the type of product that you wish to use, stay with Poraso or Musgo products. These are the | ||
− | best of the non-brush products. | ||
− | + | === So what is soap? === | |
− | Soap is the result of a chemical reaction between an aqueous base solution, usually Sodium Hydroxide, | + | Soap is the result of a chemical reaction between an aqueous base solution, usually Sodium Hydroxide, and fats/oils. The fats/oils are composed of fatty acids and glycerol. The end result (I spare you all the in between reactions, if interested, E-Mail me) are sodium soaps and glycerin. |
− | and fats/oils. The fats/oils are composed of fatty acids and glycerol. The end result (I spare you all the in | ||
− | between reactions, if interested, E-Mail me) are sodium soaps and glycerin | ||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | + | If you read the ingredient list of soaps you will find such things as, sodium tallowate, sodium palmate, sodium cocoate etc. What this indicates is that the fats used to produce the soap were tallow, palm oil, and coconut oil. Unless the manufacturer makes a claim about the soap that it does something other than clean. If said to moisturize, condition or something else, then it must be labeled by Food & Drug Administration Cosmetic rules and list raw base ingredients, not end reaction ingredients. Not surprisingly, manufacturers don’t want to list Sodium Hydroxide so they don’t make claims. To be effective as a shaving soap, a product should have a high percentage of castor & olive oils. By themselves they would produce a very soft soap. So coconut and/or palm oils are also used for lather stability and hardness. | |
+ | |||
+ | === Buy it or make it? === | ||
If you want to buy your shaving soap, try some web searches using ‘castor oil’ and ‘shaving soap’ as the | If you want to buy your shaving soap, try some web searches using ‘castor oil’ and ‘shaving soap’ as the | ||
Line 99: | Line 85: | ||
If you want to make your own, there are four choices. | If you want to make your own, there are four choices. | ||
− | + | ==== Buy a melt & pour base ==== | |
− | or mug. Many bases to choose from. A very good olive/castor oil base can be obtained from: | + | This is the easiest. All you do is melt it in a double boiler and pour into a mold or mug. Many bases to choose from. A very good olive/castor oil base can be obtained from: http://www.brambleberry.com/supplies.html#M&P Just remember to get a base rich in castor oil and buy some bentonite clay to add. One tablespoon per pound. Also, adding a tablespoon of castor oil per pound is helpful. |
− | http://www.brambleberry.com/supplies.html#M&P | + | |
− | Just remember to get a base rich in castor oil and buy some bentonite clay to add. One tablespoon per | + | ==== Buy rebatching soap ==== |
− | pound. Also, adding a tablespoon of castor oil per pound is helpful. | + | This is a soap shred that can be melted in a plastic food bag in hot water, and then put into a mold. Two of the best are the Hemp and the Goat’s Milk Rebatch Bases from: http://www.brambleberry.com/supplies.html#M&P. |
+ | |||
+ | ==== Cold process soap ==== | ||
+ | You make this by combining an oil/fat mix with an aqueous sodium hydroxide mixture at low (usually not more than 110F) temperature. Stirring and mixing then pouring into molds. | ||
− | + | ; Advantage : Complete control over the ingredients and characteristics of the soap. | |
− | + | ; Disadvantage : Working with hazardous material and waiting up to two months for the soap to completely react and cure. | |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | Disadvantage | ||
− | react and cure. | ||
− | + | ==== Hot Process soap ==== | |
+ | Similar to cold process except the temperature is higher. Requires holding the | ||
mixture at high temp while stirring/mixing for perhaps several hours. | mixture at high temp while stirring/mixing for perhaps several hours. | ||
− | Advantage | + | |
− | Disadvantage | + | ; Advantage : Same as cold process except soap is completely cured & reacted in a day or two. |
+ | ; Disadvantage : Working with hazardous material at high temperature. | ||
+ | |||
For options 1 & 2, much info is available online. For options 3 & 4, buy some books. | For options 1 & 2, much info is available online. For options 3 & 4, buy some books. | ||
− | + | == Brushes == | |
− | Brushes | ||
You can be using the finest shaving soap; but if you have a poor brush you will not get a decent lather. | You can be using the finest shaving soap; but if you have a poor brush you will not get a decent lather. | ||
Line 127: | Line 112: | ||
produces a much denser lather. For the cooks, it is like trying to beat eggs or make a sauce with a spoon | produces a much denser lather. For the cooks, it is like trying to beat eggs or make a sauce with a spoon | ||
instead of a whisk. Generally you will find brushes sold as: | instead of a whisk. Generally you will find brushes sold as: | ||
− | Bristle, Pure Bristle or other similar terms | + | |
− | gouge out soap and never produce a good lather. | + | ; Bristle, Pure Bristle or other similar terms : These are made from hog bristle and are hard and stiff. Will gouge out soap and never produce a good lather. |
− | Pure Badger | + | ; Pure Badger : The lowest grade of badger bristle brush, quite a bit better than the above. |
− | Finest Badger | + | ; Finest Badger : Much better than Pure Badger, probably the best results-to-cost choice. |
− | Silver-Tip Badger | + | ; Silver-Tip Badger : The best. The lather as compared to finest badger is better. But, they are usually much more expensive. |
− | much more expensive. | + | ; Pure : Finest Silver-Tip |
− | Pure Finest Silver-Tip | + | |
Use this photo to help grade a brush by appearance. Find a shop that has all choices and learn how they | Use this photo to help grade a brush by appearance. Find a shop that has all choices and learn how they | ||
feel. Check the inner bristles; some brushes have quality on the outside, crap on the inside. | feel. Check the inner bristles; some brushes have quality on the outside, crap on the inside. | ||
− | + | == Developing a good lather == | |
This will vary quite a bit depending on your soap, brush and water hardness. The lathers in the following | This will vary quite a bit depending on your soap, brush and water hardness. The lathers in the following | ||
photos were developed using the very hard water in my area. | photos were developed using the very hard water in my area. | ||
+ | |||
Commercial Soap Castor Oil rich soap | Commercial Soap Castor Oil rich soap | ||
− | The above are 60x photos of lather developed by commercial and | + | |
+ | The above are 60x photos of lather developed by commercial and home made soap. Notice the castor-oil | ||
rich soap has a much smaller average bubble size. This results in a lather that has a consistency close to | rich soap has a much smaller average bubble size. This results in a lather that has a consistency close to | ||
whipped cream. The commercial soap has lather close to the consistency of lightly beaten egg whites. | whipped cream. The commercial soap has lather close to the consistency of lightly beaten egg whites. | ||
The larger bubbles have more unbound water and tend to run when applied to the face. Smaller bubbles | The larger bubbles have more unbound water and tend to run when applied to the face. Smaller bubbles | ||
indicate thicker walls and more of an oil/water emulsion. | indicate thicker walls and more of an oil/water emulsion. | ||
+ | |||
When you apply the lather to the face, use the tip of the brush in a small circular motion. This works the | When you apply the lather to the face, use the tip of the brush in a small circular motion. This works the | ||
lather into and around the beard hair. Don’t just pick up a bit of lather and slap in onto the face. Wait a | lather into and around the beard hair. Don’t just pick up a bit of lather and slap in onto the face. Wait a | ||
bit then start shaving. | bit then start shaving. | ||
− | + | ||
+ | : How to shave will not be discussed here. | ||
− | + | == After the shave == | |
I am convinced the alcohol based after shaves were developed as a torture method during the middle | I am convinced the alcohol based after shaves were developed as a torture method during the middle | ||
Line 160: | Line 149: | ||
irritating, possibly cutting and removing cells from the top layer. Now slap alcohol on your face? | irritating, possibly cutting and removing cells from the top layer. Now slap alcohol on your face? | ||
I don’t think so. | I don’t think so. | ||
+ | |||
What is needed is something that will sooth, condition, moisturize and help heal the skin. In this case I | What is needed is something that will sooth, condition, moisturize and help heal the skin. In this case I | ||
feel only natural ingredients should be used. There are many oils and extracts that can be used. What is | feel only natural ingredients should be used. There are many oils and extracts that can be used. What is | ||
desired is something light, non-greasy and is readily absorbed by the skin. Examples are: | desired is something light, non-greasy and is readily absorbed by the skin. Examples are: | ||
− | + | ||
− | Apricot | + | * Aloe-Vera Gel 1:1 |
− | Borage | + | * Apricot |
− | Calendula | + | * Apricot Kernel |
− | Carrot | + | * Borage |
− | Emu | + | * Calendula |
− | Evening Primrose | + | * Carrot |
− | Flax Seed | + | * Carrot seed |
− | Fractionated Coconut | + | * Emu |
− | Grapeseed | + | * Essential Oils (healing & conditioning properties) |
− | Jojoba | + | * Evening Primrose |
− | Kukui Nut | + | * Flax Seed |
− | Pumpkin Seed | + | * Fractionated Coconut |
− | Rice Bran | + | * Grapefruit Seed Extract (preservative) |
− | Rosehip | + | * Grapeseed |
− | + | * Hydrogenated Jojoba (adds body and the benefits of Jojoba) | |
− | + | * Jojoba | |
− | + | * Kukui Nut | |
− | + | * Liquids | |
− | + | * Mango | |
− | Vegetable Butters (used to add body to a lotion) | + | * Myrrh |
− | + | * Oils | |
− | + | * Other Stuff | |
− | + | * Pumpkin Seed | |
− | + | * Rice Bran | |
− | + | * Rosehip | |
− | + | * Sandalwood | |
− | + | * Sweet Almond | |
− | + | * Tea Tree | |
− | + | * Vegetable Butters (used to add body to a lotion) | |
− | + | * Virgin Coconut | |
− | + | * Watermelon Seed | |
+ | * Wheatgerm | ||
Good luck finding a commercial product that has any of these. Most have water as the main ingredient. I | Good luck finding a commercial product that has any of these. Most have water as the main ingredient. I | ||
am not aware of any products that have more than a trace amount of any beneficial ingredients. | am not aware of any products that have more than a trace amount of any beneficial ingredients. | ||
− | What to do | + | |
+ | === What to do === | ||
+ | |||
Make your own or search the web for a soap & lotion maker. I looked for a long time and found nothing. | Make your own or search the web for a soap & lotion maker. I looked for a long time and found nothing. | ||
That is how I got started making my own. | That is how I got started making my own. | ||
+ | |||
My after-shave is made from: | My after-shave is made from: | ||
Oils: | Oils: | ||
− | Borage | + | * Aloe-Vera Gel |
− | Carrot | + | * Borage |
− | Fractioned Coconut | + | * Carrot |
− | Kukui Nut | + | * Essential Oils |
− | + | * Fractioned Coconut | |
− | + | * Grapefruit Seed Extract | |
− | Liquid | + | * Hydrogenated Jojoba |
− | + | * Kukui Nut | |
− | Other Stuff | + | * Liquid |
− | + | * Other Stuff | |
− | + | * Rice Bran | |
− | + | * Tea Tree | |
− | Tea Tree | + | * Virgin Coconut |
I do not use any water; the aloe-vera gel is used as the water phase. | I do not use any water; the aloe-vera gel is used as the water phase. | ||
+ | |||
All of the above are my opinions about soap, brushes & after-shave. As concerns opinions, there are two | All of the above are my opinions about soap, brushes & after-shave. As concerns opinions, there are two | ||
schools of thought: | schools of thought: | ||
− | Opinions are like ***holes, everyone has one | + | : Opinions are like ***holes, everyone has one |
Or | Or | ||
− | I am the world’s foremost expert on my opinion | + | : I am the world’s foremost expert on my opinion |
Have fun shaving; just use the best razors and products you can find. | Have fun shaving; just use the best razors and products you can find. | ||
− | Bill | + | |
− | bshank66 | + | Bill (bshank66) |
[[Category:Equipment]] | [[Category:Equipment]] | ||
[[Category:Shaving_Soap]] | [[Category:Shaving_Soap]] |
Revision as of 18:34, 23 December 2008
Contents
Ingredients in shaving preparations
Softening the beard
Since dry beard hair is about as tough to cut as copper wire of the same diameter, a means to soften the hair must be used. Hot water alone will do this to some extent; but, some chemical help is needed. These chemicals can be natural, man-made or a combination.
They are called softeners, moisturizers, or humectants. What they do is bind, hold, combine with, or draw moisture from the air. Some are better suited for use on hair than on skin. Some examples are:
Natural:
- Allantoin (Comfrey Root)
- Aloe-Vera Gel (Liquid pressed from inner leaves)
- Apricot Extract
- Castor Oil
- Grapefruit Leaf Extract
- Hydrolyzed Whole Wheat Protein
- Olive Oil
- Papaya Extract
Man-Made:
- Lactamide MEA
- Methyl Gluceth-10
- Panthenol
- Phytantriol
- Propylene Glycol
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Sodium PCA
Conditioning and protecting the skin
Shaving will irritate and damage the skin. So it must be protected, conditioned, and lubricated. Some of the chemicals that soften the beard hair can also be used for the skin. Some examples are-
Natural:
- Aloe-Vera oil & gel
- Apricot Kernel Oil
- Borage Oil
- Carrot Oil
- Fractioned Coconut Oil
- Jojoba
- Kukui Nut Oil
- Rice Bran Oil
- Rosehip Seed Oil
Man-Made:
- C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
- Caprylic Triglycerides
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Dimethicone
- Glycereth-26
- Methyl Gluceth- 10
Lubricants
Any shaving product with oils and conditioners will provide some lubrication. There is one material, Bentonite Clay, that is a superior lubricant. It can be used in all types of shaving products; however, it does have a problem. When used in a quantity to be effective it imparts a ‘pond scum’ green color. Small price to pay for a good shave.
Types of Shaving Products
O my, so many to chose from. Soap, Oils, creams, lotions, and stuff in cans. For the most part, all choices except soaps will be formulated from mainly man-made ingredients. This is not necessarily bad, just a cheaper, less effective product. Most will have water, binders, stabilizers, thickeners and emulsifiers as the main ingredients and are applied to the face without a brush.
If this is the type of product that you wish to use, stay with Poraso or Musgo products. These are the best of the non-brush products.
So what is soap?
Soap is the result of a chemical reaction between an aqueous base solution, usually Sodium Hydroxide, and fats/oils. The fats/oils are composed of fatty acids and glycerol. The end result (I spare you all the in between reactions, if interested, E-Mail me) are sodium soaps and glycerin.
If you read the ingredient list of soaps you will find such things as, sodium tallowate, sodium palmate, sodium cocoate etc. What this indicates is that the fats used to produce the soap were tallow, palm oil, and coconut oil. Unless the manufacturer makes a claim about the soap that it does something other than clean. If said to moisturize, condition or something else, then it must be labeled by Food & Drug Administration Cosmetic rules and list raw base ingredients, not end reaction ingredients. Not surprisingly, manufacturers don’t want to list Sodium Hydroxide so they don’t make claims. To be effective as a shaving soap, a product should have a high percentage of castor & olive oils. By themselves they would produce a very soft soap. So coconut and/or palm oils are also used for lather stability and hardness.
Buy it or make it?
If you want to buy your shaving soap, try some web searches using ‘castor oil’ and ‘shaving soap’ as the search phrases. Below are a few links to soap that I have used, and my comments: http://www.annelees.com/shavingsoap.html very good soap if you like a Bay Rum scent http://www.heavensoap.com/shavesoap.htm not too bad, a bit drying, could use more castor oil http://www.spuddie.net/shaving.htm good soap
If you want to make your own, there are four choices.
Buy a melt & pour base
This is the easiest. All you do is melt it in a double boiler and pour into a mold or mug. Many bases to choose from. A very good olive/castor oil base can be obtained from: http://www.brambleberry.com/supplies.html#M&P Just remember to get a base rich in castor oil and buy some bentonite clay to add. One tablespoon per pound. Also, adding a tablespoon of castor oil per pound is helpful.
Buy rebatching soap
This is a soap shred that can be melted in a plastic food bag in hot water, and then put into a mold. Two of the best are the Hemp and the Goat’s Milk Rebatch Bases from: http://www.brambleberry.com/supplies.html#M&P.
Cold process soap
You make this by combining an oil/fat mix with an aqueous sodium hydroxide mixture at low (usually not more than 110F) temperature. Stirring and mixing then pouring into molds.
- Advantage
- Complete control over the ingredients and characteristics of the soap.
- Disadvantage
- Working with hazardous material and waiting up to two months for the soap to completely react and cure.
Hot Process soap
Similar to cold process except the temperature is higher. Requires holding the mixture at high temp while stirring/mixing for perhaps several hours.
- Advantage
- Same as cold process except soap is completely cured & reacted in a day or two.
- Disadvantage
- Working with hazardous material at high temperature.
For options 1 & 2, much info is available online. For options 3 & 4, buy some books.
Brushes
You can be using the finest shaving soap; but if you have a poor brush you will not get a decent lather. The lower grade stiffer brushes will gouge out too much soap and not mix with the water. A softer brush produces a much denser lather. For the cooks, it is like trying to beat eggs or make a sauce with a spoon instead of a whisk. Generally you will find brushes sold as:
- Bristle, Pure Bristle or other similar terms
- These are made from hog bristle and are hard and stiff. Will gouge out soap and never produce a good lather.
- Pure Badger
- The lowest grade of badger bristle brush, quite a bit better than the above.
- Finest Badger
- Much better than Pure Badger, probably the best results-to-cost choice.
- Silver-Tip Badger
- The best. The lather as compared to finest badger is better. But, they are usually much more expensive.
- Pure
- Finest Silver-Tip
Use this photo to help grade a brush by appearance. Find a shop that has all choices and learn how they feel. Check the inner bristles; some brushes have quality on the outside, crap on the inside.
Developing a good lather
This will vary quite a bit depending on your soap, brush and water hardness. The lathers in the following photos were developed using the very hard water in my area.
Commercial Soap Castor Oil rich soap
The above are 60x photos of lather developed by commercial and home made soap. Notice the castor-oil rich soap has a much smaller average bubble size. This results in a lather that has a consistency close to whipped cream. The commercial soap has lather close to the consistency of lightly beaten egg whites. The larger bubbles have more unbound water and tend to run when applied to the face. Smaller bubbles indicate thicker walls and more of an oil/water emulsion.
When you apply the lather to the face, use the tip of the brush in a small circular motion. This works the lather into and around the beard hair. Don’t just pick up a bit of lather and slap in onto the face. Wait a bit then start shaving.
- How to shave will not be discussed here.
After the shave
I am convinced the alcohol based after shaves were developed as a torture method during the middle ages. Who thought of this? You have just scraped some sort of sharpened metal device across your face; irritating, possibly cutting and removing cells from the top layer. Now slap alcohol on your face? I don’t think so.
What is needed is something that will sooth, condition, moisturize and help heal the skin. In this case I feel only natural ingredients should be used. There are many oils and extracts that can be used. What is desired is something light, non-greasy and is readily absorbed by the skin. Examples are:
- Aloe-Vera Gel 1:1
- Apricot
- Apricot Kernel
- Borage
- Calendula
- Carrot
- Carrot seed
- Emu
- Essential Oils (healing & conditioning properties)
- Evening Primrose
- Flax Seed
- Fractionated Coconut
- Grapefruit Seed Extract (preservative)
- Grapeseed
- Hydrogenated Jojoba (adds body and the benefits of Jojoba)
- Jojoba
- Kukui Nut
- Liquids
- Mango
- Myrrh
- Oils
- Other Stuff
- Pumpkin Seed
- Rice Bran
- Rosehip
- Sandalwood
- Sweet Almond
- Tea Tree
- Vegetable Butters (used to add body to a lotion)
- Virgin Coconut
- Watermelon Seed
- Wheatgerm
Good luck finding a commercial product that has any of these. Most have water as the main ingredient. I am not aware of any products that have more than a trace amount of any beneficial ingredients.
What to do
Make your own or search the web for a soap & lotion maker. I looked for a long time and found nothing. That is how I got started making my own.
My after-shave is made from: Oils:
- Aloe-Vera Gel
- Borage
- Carrot
- Essential Oils
- Fractioned Coconut
- Grapefruit Seed Extract
- Hydrogenated Jojoba
- Kukui Nut
- Liquid
- Other Stuff
- Rice Bran
- Tea Tree
- Virgin Coconut
I do not use any water; the aloe-vera gel is used as the water phase.
All of the above are my opinions about soap, brushes & after-shave. As concerns opinions, there are two schools of thought:
- Opinions are like ***holes, everyone has one
Or
- I am the world’s foremost expert on my opinion
Have fun shaving; just use the best razors and products you can find.
Bill (bshank66)