The straight razor

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In this entry, we will explore straight razors a bit more in depth including the anatomy of a straight razor, different styles of razors, things to look for when buying antique straight razors for use, questions to ask a seller when purchasing an antique razor online, as well as many other things.

Basic Straight Razor Anatomy

Straight Razor-Basic Anatomy.png

Orientation used in the description: the handle to the right, blade to the left, cutting edge pointing downwards.

Kopf/Point/Bout/Punta
the left end of the blade.
Blade, with a Ruecken/Back/Dos/Lomo
the part of the blade opposite the cutting edge, and an Schneide/Cutting edge/Tranchant/Corte (pointing downwards).
Erl/Tang/talon/Espiga
the complete non-cutting metal part fixed to the blade, serving as a grip for the index, middle, ring, and little finger.
Doppelansatz/Double stabilizing piece/Double piece stabilisatrice/Doble pieza estabilizadora
two close parallel vertical rims situated where the tang continues to the cutting part on the knife. Sometimes there is only one stabilizing piece.
Kranzangel/Decorated tang/Talon decore/Espiga decorada
some sort of art where the blade stops and the tang begin.
Schale/Handle/Manche/Cacha
the part of the razor that contains the blade when closed. Sometimes it has an Einlage/Inlay/Marque/Marca (text, mark on the handle).
Steg/Center plug/Rivet central/Remanche estabilizador
the middle plug on the handle; Hohlung/Hollow ground/Evidage/Filo Concavo: the biconcave form of the blade in transection view.
Goldaetzung/Gold etching/Gravure doree/Grabado Dorado
the mark or text on the blade.
Zeichen/Trade mark/Marque/Marca
the mark/text graved on the tang.
The Ridge/Der Wall
parallel to the back and the edge, running from point to the stabilizing piece, is a thickening of the blade, the purpose of which is to stabilize against torsion in the horizontal plane, and to give the edge elasticity. The stabilizing piece gives the blade torsion resistance in the vertical plane. If the ridge is close to the edge, it is called =BC hollow ground, the lowest grade of hollow ground; if it is close to the back, it is called 1/1 or full hollow ground; =BD and =BE are in-between.

Straight Razor Point Styles

Straight Razor Points Explained.png

The point of the blade can be shaped in several styles, the commonest being the round point and the square point (or ‘spike’), but there are also half - round, oblique, notched and French points. The sharp corner on the square point razor is useful for exact work, say, around the edge of a moustache, but it is also easy to cut yourself with, so most beginners will want a round point as this is more forgiving.[1]

Widths and Grinds

Grind chart.jpg

Scale Materials

Buying Razors

Bevel Condition

Reading Hone Wear

Pitting

Serious Issues

Frowning Blades

Edge damage

Heavy Pitting

Extreme Warping

Questions to Ask A Seller

  1. When was the blade last honed?
  2. Does it center in the scales without the edge making contact on either side?
  3. Is the pivot pin tight?
  4. Are the scales original?
  5. Are there any cracks in the scales?
  6. Are there any hairline cracks in the blade?
  7. Do you have pictures of the (other side of the blade, close up of a certain area, etc)?
  8. Do you offer a return policy if I am not satisfied?
    • If yes, what are the terms?
  9. http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/downloads//ec_tmp/The-Straight-Razor-Shave.pdf
  10. Retrieved from "https://shavelibrary.com/index.php?title=The_straight_razor&oldid=687"